It's a Sunday morning, and you are up on a hill. But this is not just any Sunday, you know, a back home kind of Sunday. Or any kind of hill for that matter. This is a Kosi Sunday and the hill overlooks the Kosi river estuary which spills into the Indian Ocean. The hill is on the south eastern edge of Africa looking towards Madagascar some 400km out across the horizon line. Your Landcruiser is parked behind you, standing up to her runner boards in red grass. A species of v